Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Spiritual Glamour AW19 in collaboration with Claudy Jongstra

We are thrilled to share our inspiring collaboration with Viktor&Rolf for the Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection Spiritual Glamour. Fascinated by Claudy Jongstra’s scientific research and with great respect for her eco-aware practice and holistic mission for a better planet, Viktor&Rolf created a series of sculptural coats in an array of voluminous shapes from Jongstra’s trademark woollen textiles. The collection focuses on the color black, specifically the complex and mystifying tones of Burgundian Black perfected by master dyers in the 15th to 17th centuries. In collaboration with the Artechne Project (European Research Council) led by Prof. Sven Dupré, artist-alchemist Claudy Jongstra has revived and reimagined the long-lost creation processes for a multitude of lustrous and lasting shades of black. Jongstra’s extensive knowledge and experimentation with natural color-making allowed for the creation of true blacks based solely on natural ingredients and historical recipes.

The Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture Collection 2019 in collaboration with Claudy Jongstra embodies an ode to mother-nature and her powers to provoke an ecological renaissance.

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Process Introdcution

Claudy Jongstra’s artworks reimagine and reconstruct textile production systems, demonstrating deep respect for the interwoven narratives of materials, landscape, and making processes. 
At Studio Claudy Jongstra, situated in the rural northern Netherlands, a flock of rare indigenous Drenthe Heath sheep and a biodynamic botanical research garden are the sources of her artistic materials. In the color laboratory, fresh botanics are distilled into natural pigment and applied to raw wool. In the atelier, Jongstra composes these uniquely personal materials into powerful, large-scale artworks and architectural installations. A highly innovative artist, Claudy Jongstra has created new territory for wool as a contemporary artistic medium.

Video Maharam X Studio Claudy Jongstra

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Video ©Maharam X Claudy Jongstra
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Making

Craft traverses intimate and collective memory alike. Layered with centuries of intuition and practical experimentation, hand-crafted textiles provoke haptic recollection of our material histories and generate possibilities for our material futures. Claudy Jongstra has mastered the ancient technique of felting - a process of binding raw fibers into cloth through a combination of water and friction - from which she has originated a distinct new language in nonwoven textiles. In contrast to the homogeneous surface of most felts, Jongstra's felts explode with raw, organic texture and painterly strokes of fiber.
The scope and richness of pigments visible in Jongstra’s artworks demonstrate the diverse potential of natural dye processes. When botanics are distilled into pigment, raw materials reveal their inner vitality in vibrant color. Each landscape across the globe bears native pigment plants that form distinct local palettes. At Studio Claudy Jongstra, plants from diverse origins - indigo, madder, cochineal, brazilwood - are transformed into global botanical color palettes that radiate across cultures and geographies.

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Photo ©Studio Claudy Jongstra and ©Heleen Haijtema
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Sourcing

Holistic production cycles bring living material narratives to light. In this way, materials become journalistic expressions of their own evolution.
Reintroducing rarefied haptic experiences, Jongstra's artworks provide humble encounters with natural materials and processes to foster an empathetic connection with the natural world.
People used to be able to feel the quality of wool between their fingers and understand its material properties through sensory experience. The textured knowledge - tacit knowledge - present in each fleece from our flock of 250 rare indigenous Drenthe Heath sheep also revitalizes an ancient connection with tactile sensibilities. 
Fifteen years of collaborative research into the process of cultivating and extracting natural pigments remains in constant symbiosis with the seasonally harvested biodynamic botanics from the research garden at Farm of the World.

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Photo ©Studio Claudy Jongstra
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Research

Studio Claudy Jongstra is a contemporary laboratory for the investigation of historical color-making technologies. Our most recent research focuses on the complex and mystifying creation of the famous Burgundian Blacks, lustrous and lasting tones
of black perfected by Flemish master dyers in the Burgundian- Habsburg Netherlands (c. 1430s - 1580s).

In collaboration with the Artechne Project (European Research Council) and a diverse range of historians, specialists, and curators, Studio Claudy Jongstra draws on a collection of color- recipe books and art technological sources from this period to revive and reimagine the Burgundian Black color-making technologies in a contemporary artistic practice. 

This research is the foundation of an exhibition entitled Back to Black at Museum Hof Van Busleyden (Mechelen, Belgium) opening in June 2019.

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Photo ©Studio Claudy Jongstra
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A Space For Being by Google

Studio Claudy Jongstra in collaboration with Google, Reddymade Architecture & Design, Muuto Design, International Arts + Mind Lab, Johns Hopkins School of Medicine, Brain Science Institute, created a specially commissioned artwork: a panoramic woolen tapestry of 16m x 1.30m for one of the three rooms in the multitudinous installation at Spazio Maiocchi, Salone del Mobile 2019. Each room has a different design theme, with its own colors, textures, sounds, and scents. Guests are given a custom-made wearable band and sent off to traverse and experience three rooms. The band measures their physical response, such as their heart rate and skin temperature. As the experience comes to an end, visitors receive a personalized analysis elucidating which room made them feel calm and at ease. A Space For Being examines what neuroaesthetics—the study of how the brain responds to art—says about the effect of art and design on our physical health and mental wellbeing.

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A Space For Being is a Google Design Studio exhibition for Salone del Mobile 2019, in collaboration with Muuto, Reddymade Architecture, and the International Arts + Mind Lab at Johns Hopkins University
Claudy Jongstra was commissioned by Reddymade Architecture & Design to create a specially art piece
Size (m): 16m x 1.30m
Materials: wool Drenth Heath, silk, mohair, linen
Pigmenst: madder, woad, onion skin, walnut
Photo credit ©Jeroen Musch
Model Claudia Buccellato Vozza
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Transparant movable partition Restaurant Normandy

For Normandy, a new culinary hotspot in urban chic Maastricht, Claudy Jongstra designed a new artwork. A transparent movable partition of 3.25 meters high and 6 meters wide with a natural color palette of wool, for the garden room and the large cafe space. Studio Claudy Jongstra was commissioned from internationally renowned architect | urbanist Jo Coenen. He created the harmony of lines, colors, shapes, and light with regard to the design of Normandy. Jo Coenen and Claudy Jongstra had previously worked for the Catshuis in The Hague and for the Amsterdam Public Library.

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Bar-Restaurent Normandy Maastricht, commissioned by Jo Coenen Architect, The Netherlands 2019
Size (m): 5 transparant movable partitions, 3.25 meters high and 6 meters wide
Material: natural color palette of Drenth Heath wool
Pigements: onion skin, woad, walnut
Photo credit ©Arjen Schmitz
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Claudy Jongstra X Hermès

Raw wool rugs with refined references to the classic Hermès silk scarves. The rugs showcase how natural materials can be incorporated into our daily lives through values and crafts passed down by generations of artisans. The installation features wool dyed with indigo, walnut, and logwood sustainably harvested from Farm of the World with recipes authentic to Dutch cultural heritage. The installation was displayed during Manifesta Biennal 12 in Hermès Palermo, Sicily, Italy, June - November 2018 in collaboration with Past Forward / Villa Valguarnera for Hermès exploring our shared commitment to the potential of natural, sustainable resources. 

Scarves: 90 x 90 cm | Rugs 1.4 x 2 m

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MAISON MARGIELA BY JOHN GALLIANO AND CLAUDY JONGSTRA ARTISANAL COLLECTION FW/2018

Studio Claudy Jongstra is so grateful and proud to have worked on a very special collaboration with Maison Margiela by John Galliano and Claudy Jongstra for the Artisanal Collection Fall/Winter 18/19. 
The final piece, debuting in Paris today, was hand-felted to pattern, provided by Maison Margiela by John Galliano, in a custom crafted indigo dye palette from Studio Claudy Jongstra's biodynamic dye garden in the Northern Netherlands. Delicate hand detailing and stitching provide the final artisanal touches to this extraordinary piece.
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Botanical Fresco Restaurant Mokum NYC

For Restaurant Mokum NYC on Amsterdam Avenue Dutch artist Claudy Jongstra, recently named Visual Artist of the Year 2019, created Botanical Fresco. Mokum - from the Yiddish for place or safe haven, in The Netherlands the slang word for the city of Amsterdam - is an all-day cultural restaurant serving healthy, delicious, farm-to-table based dishes. A haven of warm hospitality on a busy day in the city offering internationally inspired dishes that are sourced locally.
In line with the truthful origin of ingredients Botanical Fresco serves up a landscape equally appealing to the senses, in which a lush palette of color from plant pigments constitutes each individual botanical portrait on the wall.
Tacit knowledge of natural dye recipes and techniques passed down for centuries are required to bring out the vibrant colorful riches hidden in nature. From the crops of Claudy’s small-scale organic farm, De Kreake in Friesland the comforting, healing, soothing, inspiring and vital pigments are brought to the table as if they were drawn from a previously hidden landscape. Each leaf, root, skin or shell from the madder, the woad, onion or walnut offers their warm golds, deep blues, soft pink tones or sky greys. Together making a bold contribution to the scene and embodying a graceful declaration of its significance to Dutch cultural heritage straight from the famous painters of the Golden Age.
Botanical Fresco is felted in silk, mohair, linen and an abundance of wool from the Drenthe Heath Sheep, the fiber that forms the vibrant basis of most of Jongstra’s monumental works of art. As in all her enterprises, Claudy Jongstra aims to contribute to preserving the rich natural world and enhancing biodiversity while creating meaningful and charismatic works of art. Early on, 25 years ago she realized the connection between the shepherd and his herd of grazing sheep and the important survival of the Dutch heathlands in the north. As with the initiative to propagate a variety of plant crops for pigments, giving a new use and value to the Drenthe Heath Sheep’s wool, thanks to the endeavors of Studio Claudy Jongstra a major impulse was given to the preservation of biodiversity in the agricultural northern provinces.

The mural Botanical Fresco was commissioned by Matthew Baird Architects.

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Restaurant MOKUM New York City, commissioned by Matthew Baird Architects, U.S.A. 2018
Size (m): 12.15 x 1.15
Material: wool Drenthe Heath Sheep, silk, mohair, linen
Pigments: madder, woad, onion skin, walnut
Photo credit: Liz Clayman, Jeroen Musch and Studio Claudy Jongstra
https://vimeo.com/304571448
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